The Slovenia Times

Upscale Flea Market in the Heart of the Old Town

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On the weekends, old Ljubljana transforms itself into a promenade. The pace slows down as people take time to savour the good things in life. Taking a stroll by the colourful stalls of Ljubljana's Antique and Flea Market (held every Sunday morning between 8:00 am and 2:00 pm on Cankarjevo bank of the Ljubljanica) is the thing to do if you are in town.

Don't be fooled by the name, though; it's so much more than a collection of knick-knacks from someone's attic. The market is as chic as it can be. On sale are all sorts of curiosities and rarities, antiques and paintings, old books and vinyl records, romantically rusty cookie tins, stuffed dolls and fine china, ancient furniture and gilded mirrors - anything with a patina of time and nostalgia. Before sitting down for a latte, what can be better than sealing a good deal and taking home a slice of past?

The market is also a collectors' haven, with heaps of old coins, banknotes, stamps, medals, postcards and documents; it draws an international crowd from the neighbouring countries as well as local friends of the old, odd, unique and antique.

Stroll down to the river on a sunny Sunday, and search for old acquaintances and great new finds. Stopping at a few stalls will leave you with a collage of impressions as colourful as the market itself. There are numerous sellers and everyone has something special.

A lady at one of the traditional stalls specializes mostly in Slovenian souvenirs. She says the most popular are old items that could be found in Slovenian rustic homes. A favourite with the foreigners are beehive panels that are painted with typical folk art motifs; the most famous one is the devil sharpening a gossip's tongue.

The market is brimming with life; its stalls are so numerous they almost seem to compete with the open air gardens of the riverside cafés. The market also possesses more extravagant fixtures; for example, Drago's stall. He is actually a painter but since the rules say his has to offer antiques or used items, he has combined his passion for art and travel. And now offers a colourful selection of Indian and Nepalese antiques, gemstones, old stuffed dolls from India, as well as his own art.

A real veteran on the scene, who introduces himself with the initials A.D.S., offers a selection of mostly collectors' items. He contemplates the good old days; he has been around from the very beginning, some 26 years ago. He says that the first three years were the golden age of the market. Back then, people were hauling superb antiques from their attics and, not knowing their real worth, sold them to foreigners for a pittance. Now, he says many of the goods are mass-produced in factories and you must have a sharp eye to spot the originals.

Afterwards, he steers the conversation to present his world view - a curious mixture of Vedic Buddhism and genuine Slovenian cynicism - saying he is simply selling off his former addiction. He was obviously a passionate collector, but the present situation has left him somewhat in despair, thus provoking him to sell until his collection runs out.

Katja is a young force on the market and has a stall with antiques. Even though she is young, she is hardly a novice in this game. She had been helping her father since high school and has now set up her own stall. She says the current trends have turned towards cleaner lines and vintage 1970s design, so the antiques are selling rather slowly. A small piece here and there bought for a gift, and that is it. Tourists mostly buy vintage tea and coffee cups, statuettes and small ornamental objects; items which are easy to carry onboard a plane. Business is slow she says, most of the time it is just a lot of talking to people who stop at the stall.

When you are full to the brim of colourful impressions, it is finally time to sit down at one of the riverside cafés for that cup of coffee.

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