The Slovenia Times

Slovenia's only preserved Baroque garden pavilion

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The Devil's Tower in Soteska. Photo: Rasto Božič/STA

The Devil's Tower in Soteska, part of the once majestic Soteska Castle complex in the southeast, is Slovenia's only preserved Baroque garden pavilion. Known for a dark legend behind its name, the tower keeps a long-hidden treasure.

Restoration of the pavilion started in the 1970s and continues today, while the nearby castle is still mostly in ruins although some renovation work started late last year and the castle area is now safe to enter.

Extraordinary frescoes

The main part of the renovation of the Devil's Tower was completed at the end of 2017 and restoration of the basement frescoes from the 17th century revealed new colourful images. The frescoes are attributed to the workshop of Dutch painter Almanach, who spent some time living and painting in Slovenia.

The restoration revealed an "extraordinary painting", Anja Urbanc, who conducted the conservation-restoration works, said in November 2017. Images that were concealed for hundreds of years such as a stork, ducks and a hunter, have been brought back to life. The team retouched the missing parts and cracks in the frescoes and reaffirmed the plaster to protect them from further decay.

A four-member team spent some 1,500 working hours on the project worth over €80,000. The Culture Ministry covered about a third of the costs, while the municipality of Dolenjske Toplice, the owner of the tower and the castle area, paid for the rest.

The interior of the pavilion, which is part of the castle complex that used to reign on the Krka river bank, is rich in artwork. The walls of the arched basement feature images of a forest hunt, motifs of fountains and stone portals with creatures from the Antique mythology. The ceiling is decorated with the scene of Zeus's abduction of Ganymede.

Dark past, bright future

Legend has it that the pavilion was named the Devil's Tower by locals because the noblemen of the nearby Soteska Castle used to take the daughters of the peasants who owed them money there to have their way with them.

But despite its dark past, this architectural gem is now a popular venue for concerts, art exhibitions, protocol events, weddings and receptions. The local community is also working to bring the nearby castle ruins to life.

Soteska Castle to become an events venue

Soteska Castle was built in the second half of the 17th century, to replace a smaller castle built on the right bank of the Krka in the 16th century. The castle was built by Count Jurij Žiga Gallenberg between 1664 and 1689, and in 1793 it came into the hands of the Dukes of Auersperg of Žužemberk Castle.

The Baroque-style clover leaf-shaped garden with a garden pavilion was added to the castle complex in the late 17th century. Later a multi-level pool was added below. Today only the pavilion and a part of the stone wall, which used to feature four impressive portals, are preserved.

With its rich stucco and paintings, sumptuous furnishings and magnificent gardens, Soteska Castle has long been considered one of the most beautiful castles in Carniola, a historical region that comprised parts of present-day Slovenia. In The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola, Johann Weikhard Freiherr von Valvasor referred to it as the Versailles of Carniola.

During the Second World War, the castle was burnt by Partisans after which locals used it to extract stone. But the municipality started renovating the ruins at the end of 2023 and at the end of February the reconstruction of the gate tower was completed, which guarantees a safe passage into the castle's courtyard. The castle structure is now also earthquake-resistant.

The plans for next year include renovation of the area inside the castle walls to turn into an amphitheatre-style event venue, Dolenjske Toplice Mayor Franc Vovk recently told the Slovenian Press Agency. The project is valued at €500,000 with the Ministry of Economy, Tourism and Sport to contribute some €320,000.

The castle garden featuring a well is also expected to be renovated in the future.

Visitors can learn more about the history of the castle complex from an information board set up at its entrance by the Technical Museum of Slovenia.

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